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The evolution of female ornamentation has been subject to considerable debate. Although originally thought to be by-products of selection on males, recent studies have emphasized the adaptive nature of female ornaments. Here, I review current knowledge on the genetic architecture of ornamental traits and how their expression is (or is not) restricted to one sex. Ornament development typically involves deeply conserved developmental genes. Their expression is modified by pre-existing sexually dimorphic signals, such as hormones in vertebrates or doublesex gene products in insects. Changes in dosage and binding affinities in these systems apparently allow frequent switches between sexually dimorphic and monomorphic ornament expression. However, early-developing ornaments may be difficult to modulate, as this would result in severe pleiotropic effects. Comparative studies on the molecular structure of the sex-specific modulating signals and their receptors should provide detailed insight into the mechanisms underlying the loss and gain of female ornaments.
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